The Lorraine Hotel If you want to understand the South, and especially Memphis, in all of its glory, horror and inconsistency, either visit the Krystals hamburger joint on Union Avenue at 4.00am on a Saturday morning or go to The National Civil Rights Museum. Stepping through the doors of what was once a relatively funky downtown hotel where the likes of Otis, Aretha and Sam Cooke used to hang, to be confronted with the pain of a nation, is a mightily sobering reminder of how far we’ve come and the distance that’s yet to be traversed. (Photo: Joss Hutton)