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David Lee Roth Takes Off His Warpaint

Mark Dery, Winner, November 1986

LOS ANGELES has a mess of atavistic attractions most tourists never get hip to: Chili Cheese Fritos, Dodger Dogs, Fatburger ("The Last Great Hamburger Stand"), the Tropicana Club ("Female Mudwrestling Seven Nights A Week"), Tommyburgers, and Barney's Beanery, a Hollywood watering hole where the Strip's rat-faced mongrels and burr-headed little buggers huddle in naugahyde booths, make connections at the wall-mounted pay phones within arm's-reach of the wall-mounted urinals or stock up on the city's most colorful selection of men's room toys – french ticklers, nudie pix, massage oils, and yuk-yuk novelties.

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